cleaned tank

Peter Pan · Joined: 17 Dec 2007 Posts: 57

Steve Heath wrote:
> "Peter Pan" wrote in message
> @comcast.com...
>> I have a FOWLR no inverts...
>
> With a FOWLR, nitrates are much less of a concern than they are in a reef
> tank. Most fish can tolerate a sustained 40 ppm with no ill effects. No
> need to worry about anything around 20 or less.
>
Thanks, But I want to add some inverts/ soft corals and would like to
get this under control before making the investment

Archived from group: rec>aquaria>marine>reefs

jthread · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 132

"Peter Pan" wrote in message @comcast.com...
> jthread wrote:
>> "Peter Pan" wrote in message
>> @comcast.com...
>>> jthread wrote:
>>>> finally rigged a system for removing red algae but its a two man op.
>>>>
>>>> tanks are staying amazingly low on nitrates.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I wish I knew how to keep the Nitrates low.. I did a partial a few days
>>> ago and IM back to 15 ppm..
>>
>> I was told 'less than or equal to 20 ppm' was low enough. Why is 15 ppm
>> too high? I would think, with your canister type filter, 15 ppm would be
>> pretty good.
>>
>> Does it stay at 15ppm? Or will it climb up on it's own? Have you tried
>> feeding less?
>>
>> My 30 gal is almost completely filled with lr including the false back.
>> The nitrates stay at less than 15 ppm. No canister on that one.
> I went from 5 ppm to 15 ppm in roughly 10 days. I've tried less feedings
> (every other day) I've also tried more frequent partials and still the
> nitrates climb.

I'm not sure there is anything wrong with that. I don't even know how you
could test so accurately. I think if you have any fish and you are feeding
them you're going to have some nitrates. I was told to do my changes at >20
ppm.
Are you feeding your invertebrates separate from you fish?

Jim

Pszemol · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 643

"jthread" wrote in message $MJ6.412@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> The light from the kitchen on and the sky light are just
> too much light. I've cut the aquarium lights and I'm hoping
> by just vacuuming it regularly the algae will die out.

Just this statement sugests that something is seriously
wrong with your tank setup or stocking - there should be
never too much sun/light in a reef tank!
You do not limit the light intake, you increase the
nutrients export from the tank to avoid algae outbreaks.

Red algae usually means too much phosphates.
Have you measured if you have them as low as in the real ocean?

Wayne Sallee · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 526

I think it's easier to keep nitrates down in a reef
tank with corals than it is in a tank without
corals. The corals help take up the nitrates.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne@WayneSallee.com

Peter Pan wrote on 2/19/2008 3:30 PM:
> I have a FOWLR no inverts...

Wayne Sallee · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 526

Yep that's right. And also limit nutrient input.

And when you have fast coral growth you have a form
of nutrient uptake.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne@WayneSallee.com

Pszemol wrote on 2/19/2008 9:38 PM:
> "jthread" wrote in message
> $MJ6.412@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>> The light from the kitchen on and the sky light are just too much
>> light. I've cut the aquarium lights and I'm hoping
>> by just vacuuming it regularly the algae will die out.
>
> Just this statement sugests that something is seriously
> wrong with your tank setup or stocking - there should be
> never too much sun/light in a reef tank!
> You do not limit the light intake, you increase the
> nutrients export from the tank to avoid algae outbreaks.
>
> Red algae usually means too much phosphates.
> Have you measured if you have them as low as in the real ocean?

Wayne Sallee · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 526

And every reef keeper should have a good sized
refugium with macro algae.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne@WayneSallee.com

Wayne Sallee wrote on 2/20/2008 9:20 AM:
> Yep that's right. And also limit nutrient input.
>
> And when you have fast coral growth you have a form of nutrient uptake.
>
> Wayne Sallee
> Wayne@WayneSallee.com
>
>
> Pszemol wrote on 2/19/2008 9:38 PM:
>> "jthread" wrote in message
>> $MJ6.412@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>>> The light from the kitchen on and the sky light are just too much
>>> light. I've cut the aquarium lights and I'm hoping
>>> by just vacuuming it regularly the algae will die out.
>>
>> Just this statement sugests that something is seriously
>> wrong with your tank setup or stocking - there should be
>> never too much sun/light in a reef tank!
>> You do not limit the light intake, you increase the
>> nutrients export from the tank to avoid algae outbreaks.
>>
>> Red algae usually means too much phosphates.
>> Have you measured if you have them as low as in the real ocean?

Pszemol · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 643

"jthread" wrote in message $kj1.484904@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> Checked Phosphates this morning. Didn't even register.

What test are you using? What is its expected acuracy?
What is the lowest number on the scale?
Do you have the reference sample to check if test is ok?

Note, that phosphates are harder to measure, because
desired concentrations are much, much lower miligrams
than nitrates. Regular concentration of phosphates on
natural reef are below 1mg/l, more at 0.5mg/l level.

Red slime algae in my tanks appear when I have nitrates
very low, below 1mg/L and phosphates above 1mg/l.

> Nitrates >20ppm
>
> The tank is pretty healthy. Coral are growing propagating.
> Fish would be fat if I let them. I just get that algae by the sunlight.

Once again - sunlight IS NOT A PROBLEM in the reef tanks.
If we have this chance, we would all like to have the
reef tank under the skylight or with no roof at all Smile

Red algae can be in many shapes and forms - to be more
specific I was talking about red slime algae, cyanobacteria.
This type can survive in the environment low in nitrate
because it can syntethize nitrogen in the gaseous form
diluted in the water. Other types of algae cannot do
this trick so they need nitrates or ammonia in water
as a source of nitrogen. All algae, including cyanobacteria
(red slime) require phosphate as a source of phosphorus.

Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess
your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria...

Peter Pan · Joined: 17 Dec 2007 Posts: 57

s.
>
> Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess
> your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria...

Chemi-Clean works over night on red slime.. and its reef safe

jthread · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 132

"Pszemol" wrote in message @poczta.onet.pl...
> "jthread" wrote in message
> $MJ6.412@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>> The light from the kitchen on and the sky light are just too much light.
>> I've cut the aquarium lights and I'm hoping
>> by just vacuuming it regularly the algae will die out.
>
> Just this statement sugests that something is seriously
> wrong with your tank setup or stocking - there should be
> never too much sun/light in a reef tank!
> You do not limit the light intake, you increase the
> nutrients export from the tank to avoid algae outbreaks.
>
> Red algae usually means too much phosphates.
> Have you measured if you have them as low as in the real ocean?

Checked Phosphates this morning. Didn't even register.

Nitrates >20ppm

The tank is pretty healthy. Coral are growing propagating. Fish would be fat
if I let them. I just get that algae by the sunlight.

Pszemol · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 643

"Peter Pan" wrote in message @comcast.com...
>> Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess
>> your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria...
>
> Chemi-Clean works over night on red slime.. and its reef safe

From the biological point of view, it will kill the cyano
and release all the nutrients back to the water column.
So you are destined to have the tank back to ugly in weeks.

jthread · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 132

"Pszemol" wrote in message @poczta.onet.pl...
> "jthread" wrote in message
> $kj1.484904@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>> Checked Phosphates this morning. Didn't even register.
>
> What test are you using? What is its expected acuracy?
> What is the lowest number on the scale?
> Do you have the reference sample to check if test is ok?
>
> Note, that phosphates are harder to measure, because
> desired concentrations are much, much lower miligrams
> than nitrates. Regular concentration of phosphates on
> natural reef are below 1mg/l, more at 0.5mg/l level.
>
> Red slime algae in my tanks appear when I have nitrates
> very low, below 1mg/L and phosphates above 1mg/l.
>
>> Nitrates >20ppm
>>
>> The tank is pretty healthy. Coral are growing propagating.
>> Fish would be fat if I let them. I just get that algae by the sunlight.
>
> Once again - sunlight IS NOT A PROBLEM in the reef tanks.
> If we have this chance, we would all like to have the
> reef tank under the skylight or with no roof at all Smile

>
> Red algae can be in many shapes and forms - to be more
> specific I was talking about red slime algae, cyanobacteria.
> This type can survive in the environment low in nitrate
> because it can syntethize nitrogen in the gaseous form
> diluted in the water. Other types of algae cannot do
> this trick so they need nitrates or ammonia in water
> as a source of nitrogen. All algae, including cyanobacteria
> (red slime) require phosphate as a source of phosphorus.
>
> Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess
> your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria...

thanks for your input. i'm just saying that is where it is growing

jthread · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 132

"Pszemol" wrote in message @poczta.onet.pl...
> "Peter Pan" wrote in message
> @comcast.com...
>>> Having more than 20mg nitrates and low phosphates I guess
>>> your red algae is not slime and not cyanobacteria...
>>
i meant less than 20. looked about 15 ppm

pretty good for that tank. it's usually about 20 ppm.

it has to do with the canister. (i think) maybe I should gut it and just use
it to circulate water?

the red slime is slime. it's gotta be - and there may be some other red
bacteria growing. Vacuuming works the best. I take the rocks out and scrub
them( in battery acid Razz

)

the other tank maintains 10ppm it is almost full of lr. that and a small
filter and a protein skimmer.

i never have to change. just replace evaporated water.

Wayne Sallee · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 526

No no no, you need to scrub them in phosphoric acid. Smile

Wayne Sallee
Wayne@WayneSallee.com

jthread wrote on 2/20/2008 11:25 PM:
> I take the rocks out and scrub
> them( in battery acid Razz

)
>

jthread · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 132

"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message $u9l$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> No no no, you need to scrub them in phosphoric acid. Smile

>
> Wayne Sallee
> Wayne@WayneSallee.com
>
>
> jthread wrote on 2/20/2008 11:25 PM:
>> I take the rocks out and scrub them( in battery acid Razz

)
>>
I was thinking of taking the guts out of my canister and put a couple of
chunks of lr and a small filter disk. then change the disk about every three
days. what do you think?

backwash it with Clorox and drain 'o'

Wayne Sallee · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 526

I would not recommend using a canister filter
containing live rock and filter fiber. If you want
to take the guts out, then leave it gutless.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne@WayneSallee.com

jthread wrote on 2/21/2008 3:05 PM:
> I was thinking of taking the guts out of my canister and put a couple of
> chunks of lr and a small filter disk. then change the disk about every three
> days. what do you think?