Water Changes

David Paquette · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 1

As long as you're treating the water, and you're sure the water is the right
temperature(use a thermometer, you're hand is horribly inaccurate), you
don't need to leave it out.

-David

"BaBeL FiSh wrote in message $ay5.27263@fe1.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
> Is it necessary to leave new water for water changes standing over night?
>
> I am treating the water to get rid of chlorine and all the other bad
> stuff, but still tend to leave it standing 24 hrs before water changes
> because of being advised to by someone ages ago.
>
> Thanks for any advice in advance.
>
>
>

Archived from group: rec>aquaria>freshwater>misc

Bill Stock · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 217

"David Paquette" wrote in message$uli$1@tribune.usask.ca...
> As long as you're treating the water, and you're sure the water is the
right
> temperature(use a thermometer, you're hand is horribly inaccurate), you
> don't need to leave it out.

I just dump the dechlor in the tank and add my water, making sure it's very
close to the same temp as the tank. Fortunately the PH in my tank (crushed
coral buffer) stays close to the PH of my tap water, so PH shock is not a
problem.

> -David
>
> "BaBeL FiSh wrote in message
> $ay5.27263@fe1.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
> > Is it necessary to leave new water for water changes standing over
night?
> >
> > I am treating the water to get rid of chlorine and all the other bad
> > stuff, but still tend to leave it standing 24 hrs before water changes
> > because of being advised to by someone ages ago.
> >
> > Thanks for any advice in advance.
> >
> >
> >
>
>

The Drunken Lord · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 41

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 17:42:23 GMT, "BaBeL FiSh <"
wrote:

>Is it necessary to leave new water for water changes standing over night?
>
>I am treating the water to get rid of chlorine and all the other bad stuff,
>but still tend to leave it standing 24 hrs before water changes because of
>being advised to by someone ages ago.
>
>Thanks for any advice in advance.

Have you called your water treatment plant and found out what all
they're treating the water with?

"BaBeL FiSh · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 2

Is it necessary to leave new water for water changes standing over night?

I am treating the water to get rid of chlorine and all the other bad stuff,
but still tend to leave it standing 24 hrs before water changes because of
being advised to by someone ages ago.

Thanks for any advice in advance.

NetMax · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 614

"BaBeL FiSh wrote in message$ay5.27263@fe1.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
> Is it necessary to leave new water for water changes standing over
night?
>
> I am treating the water to get rid of chlorine and all the other bad
stuff,
> but still tend to leave it standing 24 hrs before water changes because
of
> being advised to by someone ages ago.
>
> Thanks for any advice in advance.

Letting water age accomplishes several things.
i) If present, chlorine will begin breaking down and dissipating. A
dechlorinator will do the same thing in about 10 minutes. Note that for
chloramine, aging is not a practical option, and a dechlorinator is
usually used (or active carbon filtration which is effective on both).
ii) It will adjust to the air temperature (or you can heat it to tank
temperature). This is of some interest for those of us who use raw cold
well water and want to do water changes larger than 15-20%.
iii) The types and concentrations of dissolved gases will balance out
with those in the atmosphere. This is usually of some interest when
using water from deep wells which will have a higher concentration of
dissolved gases, typically making the pH low until the extra gases have
dissipated. If & how much you age it depends on the amount of your water
changes and the amount of dissolved gases. You can see this effect by
doing a pH test immediately after drawing water, and then again after 24
hours. The less similar the measurements are, the more the water is
out-gassing to normalize itself.
iv) When doing any chemical changes (softening, hardening, changing the
pH, stripping phosphates etc), it is best to do it in isolation (away
from fish) and allow it to stabilize.
v) Fry are more sensitive to water changes, so there is merit in aging
the water a bit, probably related to iii) above. This depends on the
size of the water change of course.

A major factor is to ask yourself how different the water going in is
from the water in the tank. The more different it is, the smaller the
water change should be, and more caution is used. The more similar the
water is (in hardness, pH temperature etc) then the less you need to
worry. Some of the best water in aquariums are on those with
continuously running water (overflows into a drain), or where huge water
changes are done very often (ie: Discus grow out tanks), so you have to
decide yourself if your application warrants aging the water. Most
applications do not. hth
--
www.NetMax.tk

Jim85CJ · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 4

It definitely can't hurt. I don't, I just do 10-20% changes and add a
few drops of the tap water conditioner. No problems so far.

BaBeL FiSh < wrote:

> Is it necessary to leave new water for water changes standing over night?
>
> I am treating the water to get rid of chlorine and all the other bad stuff,
> but still tend to leave it standing 24 hrs before water changes because of
> being advised to by someone ages ago.
>
> Thanks for any advice in advance.
>
>
>

--
------------------------------------------------------------

"There are all kinds of atrocities, and I would have to
say that, yes, yes, I committed the same kind of atrocities...
I took part in the burning of villages."
-- John Kerry

Tom · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 6

"BaBeL FiSh wrote in message $ay5.27263@fe1.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
> Is it necessary to leave new water for water changes standing over night?
>
> I am treating the water to get rid of chlorine and all the other bad
> stuff, but still tend to leave it standing 24 hrs before water changes
> because of being advised to by someone ages ago.
>
> Thanks for any advice in advance.
>
>
>

If your municipality uses Chlorine instead of the more deadly Chloramine,
then you do not have to do anything at all with small to medium water
changes of say, 25% or 30%, just refill the tank from the tap

Chlorimine is a different story, although with small changes of 10% or so
you should still be OK.

Tom

The Drunken Lord · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 41

On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 03:06:38 GMT, "Brian S."
wrote:

>Wow, I cannot imagine doing all those water changes every week!
>
>In my 29 gallon, I change five gallons each week. I will add the
>de-chlorinator and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes before putting it in my
>tank.
>
>Haven't noticed any major issues at all since I've been doing this. Like
>someone else indicated, the main reason to let it sit overnight is to let
>the temperature even out with that like the aquarium water. However, if you
>use a heater in the aquarium and it is different than room temperature, then
>this negates the idea of letting it sit overnight.
>
>I've also read that when you let it sit overnight, it will also break down
>the chlorine and other chemicals so the actual de-chlorinator chemical isn't
>needed.

Brian, that depends on the chemical composition of the chlorine that
is in your local tap water.

Gunnie · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 7

I have 5 tanks that range in size from 10 gallons to 100 gallons, and
they all get 50% water changes every week. I used a
python to drain and refill
the tanks, and once the water is drained, I immediately add water
back in along with the water conditioner. I don't think aged water
is absolutely necessary unless you have an issue with ph
fluctuations. Fortunately I don't have that problem.
__________________________________________________
Posted via FishGeeks - http://Aquaria.info

Brian S. · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 34

Wow, I cannot imagine doing all those water changes every week!

In my 29 gallon, I change five gallons each week. I will add the
de-chlorinator and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes before putting it in my
tank.

Haven't noticed any major issues at all since I've been doing this. Like
someone else indicated, the main reason to let it sit overnight is to let
the temperature even out with that like the aquarium water. However, if you
use a heater in the aquarium and it is different than room temperature, then
this negates the idea of letting it sit overnight.

I've also read that when you let it sit overnight, it will also break down
the chlorine and other chemicals so the actual de-chlorinator chemical isn't
needed.

Brian S.

"Gunnie" wrote in message@corp.supernews.com...
> I have 5 tanks that range in size from 10 gallons to 100 gallons, and
> they all get 50% water changes every week. I used a
> python to drain and refill
> the tanks, and once the water is drained, I immediately add water
> back in along with the water conditioner. I don't think aged water
> is absolutely necessary unless you have an issue with ph
> fluctuations. Fortunately I don't have that problem.
> __________________________________________________
> Posted via FishGeeks - http://Aquaria.info

Dick · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 44

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 17:42:23 GMT, "BaBeL FiSh <"
wrote:

>Is it necessary to leave new water for water changes standing over night?
>
>I am treating the water to get rid of chlorine and all the other bad stuff,
>but still tend to leave it standing 24 hrs before water changes because of
>being advised to by someone ages ago.
>
>Thanks for any advice in advance.
>
>

For two years I have used tap water run from my kitchen faucet into my
tanks directly twice weekly and have added no chemicals. I mentioned
that I was not adding chemicals to a friend, she quit adding and is
glad to be rid of the process. I have also quit using commercial
filter cartridges using just the frame from the cartidges to support
bulk filter material, no charcoal. I have "low light" plants, no
fertilizer except fish waste and no CO2. Simple is better in my mind.

The simpler the exchange of water, the more likely I will actually do
it. That is my reasoning. Test your tap water. If it is not bad,
don't treat it. Make smaller exchanges, more frequently and any
effects from the fresh tap water are more dilute. But, be comfortable
with your process so you do make the water exchanges.

I use a "Gravel Vac" equivalent. Hauling water to and from a 75 and
a 29 gallon tank is not in the books. I use a bucket to exchange
water in my 10 gallon tanks.

dick

jk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 50

"BaBeL FiSh wrote in message$ay5.27263@fe1.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
> Is it necessary to leave new water for water changes standing over night?
>
> I am treating the water to get rid of chlorine and all the other bad
stuff,
> but still tend to leave it standing 24 hrs before water changes because of
> being advised to by someone ages ago.
>
> Thanks for any advice in advance.
>
>
>

I've been using one drop per gallon Superchlor for as long as I can
remember. Why have to wait 24 hours, when you can have it ready to go
instantly?

--
JK Sinrod
Sinrod Stained Glass Studios
www.sinrodstudios.com
Coney Island Memories
www.sinrodstudios.com/coneymemories

www.Fish-Forums.com · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 7

Best bet is to get a chloramine Chlorine remover as one of these will
not dissapate so it needs to be bound with a chemical.
Really depends though if your local eater supply has this though but
better safe than sorry

Marc
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Want to win a FREE new co2 system or a lighting system check out our
forum for our newest contest coming up

http://www.fish-forums.com

Http://www.aquatic-store.com

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 17:42:23 GMT, "BaBeL FiSh <"
wrote:

>Is it necessary to leave new water for water changes standing over night?
>
>I am treating the water to get rid of chlorine and all the other bad stuff,
>but still tend to leave it standing 24 hrs before water changes because of
>being advised to by someone ages ago.
>
>Thanks for any advice in advance.
>
>

Geezer From The Freezer · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 496

Dick wrote:
> For two years I have used tap water run from my kitchen faucet into my
> tanks directly twice weekly and have added no chemicals. I mentioned
> that I was not adding chemicals to a friend, she quit adding and is
> glad to be rid of the process. I have also quit using commercial
> filter cartridges using just the frame from the cartidges to support
> bulk filter material, no charcoal. I have "low light" plants, no
> fertilizer except fish waste and no CO2. Simple is better in my mind.
>
> The simpler the exchange of water, the more likely I will actually do
> it. That is my reasoning. Test your tap water. If it is not bad,
> don't treat it. Make smaller exchanges, more frequently and any
> effects from the fresh tap water are more dilute. But, be comfortable
> with your process so you do make the water exchanges.
>
> I use a "Gravel Vac" equivalent. Hauling water to and from a 75 and
> a 29 gallon tank is not in the books. I use a bucket to exchange
> water in my 10 gallon tanks.
>
> dick

Dick - this is probably much of an issue as long as you are turning
off your filter before adding the water to allow the dilution of the
chlorine and have good aeration to allow the chlorint to disipitate.
If you water company uses Chloramine on the other hand, you fish are
likely being affected.

Mr Happy · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 6

Chlorine and chloramine both attack fish gills
0% is the answer. Chloramine is particularly nasty. I drink
Evian.

You can aretate water to drive off chlorine but, you can never
be sure what other little treasures have been added to the water
eg they will dump aluminium sulphate in to the water supply to
kill cryptospridium bacteria (I am sure it isn't spelt like
that)

I treat water then stir it well and leave for an hour

If you use a special tank to hold your fish water, people often
aerate that to stop it getting stagnant - say if you had a fish
room or were running an HMA filter

M

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