Running pipes for Fluval 404 in an S shape ...

Harry Muscle · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 50

I'm gonna be running some custom pipe work in my 55G to provide undergravel
jets. This means I have to make a transition between the pipes supplied
with my Fluval 404 and my 1/2 PVC pipes. I would prefer to make this
transition inside the stand, not the fish tank (long story why). So here's
my question. The way the pipes would be arranged is that the pipe would
form a S on it's side (meaning it would leave the filter at a certain
height, then bend to go a couple inches lower, take the transition, and then
head up to the tank). I'm wondering if such a scenario would work, since
now I have spots where air or water might get trapped. Are canister filters
designed to work properly only if the pipes go straight up to the tank.

I hope my explanation makes sense ... but if not, here's a bad picture of
what I mean:

----- TANK
|
| P
| I
-------- | P
| | | E
----- | |
| | | |
| | -----
-----
FILTER

Thank you for any feedback,
Harry

P.S. I'm wondering if the filter itself will work, as well as, if the
priming feature will work, since I've heard it's supposed to work OK if the
output pipe is located above water level (which it is). Thanks again.

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Archived from group: rec>aquaria>freshwater>misc

j.duprie · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 1

I'm not positive about the fluval, but most canister filters should work
fine once you've got all the air out of the line. Even with the "S", you're
just running a siphon, so as long as the "out" end of the feed tube (from
the tank to the filter) is lower than the surface of the water, you should
be OK.

You might be introducing back pressure problems though - make sure the
fluval can operate with only a 1/2" outflow or you might end up cooking
impellers from too mauch back pressure (has the same effect as running the
filter when its badly clogged)...

--JD

"Harry Muscle" wrote in message$1_7@corp.newsgroups.com...
> I'm gonna be running some custom pipe work in my 55G to provide
undergravel
> jets. This means I have to make a transition between the pipes supplied
> with my Fluval 404 and my 1/2 PVC pipes. I would prefer to make this
> transition inside the stand, not the fish tank (long story why). So
here's
> my question. The way the pipes would be arranged is that the pipe would
> form a S on it's side (meaning it would leave the filter at a certain
> height, then bend to go a couple inches lower, take the transition, and
then
> head up to the tank). I'm wondering if such a scenario would work, since
> now I have spots where air or water might get trapped. Are canister
filters
> designed to work properly only if the pipes go straight up to the tank.
>
> I hope my explanation makes sense ... but if not, here's a bad picture of
> what I mean:
>
> ----- TANK
> |
> | P
> | I
> -------- | P
> | | | E
> ----- | |
> | | | |
> | | -----
> -----
> FILTER
>
> Thank you for any feedback,
> Harry
>
> P.S. I'm wondering if the filter itself will work, as well as, if the
> priming feature will work, since I've heard it's supposed to work OK if
the
> output pipe is located above water level (which it is). Thanks again.
>
>
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

NetMax · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 614

I have many Fluvals running as described (mostly 304 & 404s). For
flexibility, I sometimes do not cut the corrugated hose and simply grab
another hose, so consequently, my hoses are twice as long as they should
be, and often sag down to the floor before going up to the tank. Other
than the first initial prime, I have not noticed that it has caused me
any grief. Any air entrapment tends to quickly get blown out once the
filter is running. I don't usually use the priming mechanism, and when I
have, I have had mixed results (mostly bad). Because it's a work
environment, I need to get the filter up & running quickly, so I have a
few unpowered methods I use to do the initial prime, (gravity start the
drain into a pail with the outlet end or with another hose connected at
the filter outlet, or direct a water hose outlet at the filter outlet in
the tank, etc). Subsequent primes are achieved by the filter being full
of water when re-connected, or being completely empty (partially full
will usually cause me grief). hth

NetMax

"j.duprie" wrote in message$1c1$1@tabloid.unh.edu...
> I'm not positive about the fluval, but most canister filters should
work
> fine once you've got all the air out of the line. Even with the "S",
you're
> just running a siphon, so as long as the "out" end of the feed tube
(from
> the tank to the filter) is lower than the surface of the water, you
should
> be OK.
>
> You might be introducing back pressure problems though - make sure the
> fluval can operate with only a 1/2" outflow or you might end up cooking
> impellers from too mauch back pressure (has the same effect as running
the
> filter when its badly clogged)...
>
> --JD
>
> "Harry Muscle" wrote in message
> $1_7@corp.newsgroups.com...
> > I'm gonna be running some custom pipe work in my 55G to provide
> undergravel
> > jets. This means I have to make a transition between the pipes
supplied
> > with my Fluval 404 and my 1/2 PVC pipes. I would prefer to make this
> > transition inside the stand, not the fish tank (long story why). So
> here's
> > my question. The way the pipes would be arranged is that the pipe
would
> > form a S on it's side (meaning it would leave the filter at a certain
> > height, then bend to go a couple inches lower, take the transition,
and
> then
> > head up to the tank). I'm wondering if such a scenario would work,
since
> > now I have spots where air or water might get trapped. Are canister
> filters
> > designed to work properly only if the pipes go straight up to the
tank.
> >
> > I hope my explanation makes sense ... but if not, here's a bad
picture of
> > what I mean:
> >
> > ----- TANK
> > |
> > | P
> > | I
> > -------- | P
> > | | | E
> > ----- | |
> > | | | |
> > | | -----
> > -----
> > FILTER
> >
> > Thank you for any feedback,
> > Harry
> >
> > P.S. I'm wondering if the filter itself will work, as well as, if
the
> > priming feature will work, since I've heard it's supposed to work OK
if
> the
> > output pipe is located above water level (which it is). Thanks
again.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> > http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> > -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
>
>

Harry Muscle · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 50

"NetMax" wrote in message$j57.721915@news20.bellglobal.com...
> I have many Fluvals running as described (mostly 304 & 404s). For
> flexibility, I sometimes do not cut the corrugated hose and simply grab
> another hose, so consequently, my hoses are twice as long as they should
> be, and often sag down to the floor before going up to the tank. Other
> than the first initial prime, I have not noticed that it has caused me
> any grief. Any air entrapment tends to quickly get blown out once the
> filter is running. I don't usually use the priming mechanism, and when I
> have, I have had mixed results (mostly bad). Because it's a work
> environment, I need to get the filter up & running quickly, so I have a
> few unpowered methods I use to do the initial prime, (gravity start the
> drain into a pail with the outlet end or with another hose connected at
> the filter outlet, or direct a water hose outlet at the filter outlet in
> the tank, etc). Subsequent primes are achieved by the filter being full
> of water when re-connected, or being completely empty (partially full
> will usually cause me grief). hth
>
> NetMax

Just the answer I was looking for. I got one quick question though. Do you
keep your output hose above water level? Do you find it makes a difference
in the priming methods that you use?

Thanks,
Harry

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