Quiet FIlter?

Dorothy Phitey · Joined: 20 Jan 2008 Posts: 6

I would like to set up an aquarium in my sons bedroom, as fish make great
pets and teach lessons about life and death, really a great idea for an 8
year old. However i currently only have sponge filters to filter the water,
and they tend to be noisy because they are old. So naturally a new filter
system is needed as the noise of the filters is quite disturbing if you
wanted to sleep in the same room. So what is the best sort of filter system
i could get for an 80L tank that is quiet enough to not hear the humming
noise, nor much splashing? I have kept nenos before so i know they are
sensitive to water chemistry, so a good filter is high priority.

Thanks for any adivce

D

Archived from group: alt>aquaria>tropical>fish>hobbist

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Jan 19, 11:18�pm, "Dorothy Phitey" wrote:
> I would like to set up an aquarium in my sons bedroom, as fish make great
> pets and teach lessons about life and death, really a great idea for an 8
> year old. However i currently only have sponge filters to filter the water,
> and they tend to be noisy because they are old. So naturally a new filter
> system is needed as the noise of the filters is quite disturbing if you
> wanted to sleep in the same room. So what is the best sort of filter system
> i could get for an 80L tank that is quiet enough to not hear the humming
> noise, nor much splashing? I have kept nenos before so i know they are
> sensitive to water chemistry, so a good filter is high priority.
>
> Thanks for any adivce
>
> D

Here's the best thing you can do for solving noise issues from filters
and pumps in a bedroom.
Eclipse tanks!
They're the best. They're about as silent as could be when the water
level is kept properly.
The filter is actually two types of filtration. It has a typical
filter pad and a Bio wheel.
The filter's motor warms the tank too.
It comes with fluorescent lighting, so you great, bright color too.
They come in little 3 gallon tanks (great for male Bettas!), 6 gallons
and larger too.
The only drawback is that they're acrylic. They can be scratched
(which there are repair kits), and you can't be moving them around
when filled. I mean, you can...but you risk a stress fracture. If
that happens the tank needs replacing.
So just don't move them around when filled and that's not really an
issue. = )
I love them though.
There are other types of tanks like the Eclipse Systems. However, be
careful to know what you're getting.
Some have a cheapo filtration system, some a nightlight bulb instead
of a fluorescent strip light.
The bow tanks that are often next to or compared to the eclipse tanks
are NO comparison at all.
Just remember, the larger the better. Not just for the fish, but for a
beginner (your son) too. The small tanks have less room for error.

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Jan 23, 8:32�pm, "Dorothy Phitey" wrote:

> The aquarium looks fantastic in his room! Now we just need to wait two or so
> weeks for the filter to establish before we can get a few fish and see how
> they do.
>
> Thanks
>
> D

I have to ask what are you using to cyle the now?
Ammonia, a fish, fish food, Bio Spira?
Is it just filled up and running empty?

Yes, canister filters are great.
Being from the US, I don't know what size 80L was, so I was thinking
what type of tank would folks have in a child's bedroom.
Usually, we're talking pretty small tanks, where you wouldn't use a
canister. I have one on my 75 gallon and I just love it.

When you need to service the filter, make sure you rinse out the pad
in a bucket of tank water.
You don't want to kill of the nitrifying bacteria that are all over
it.
After a bunch of squeezing and swooshing (lol), I like to dump that
water and then get a little more tank water and give it another
swoosh.
Then I add some dechlor to the canister, tank water or tap the same
temp as the tank water, and put the filter back together.

Dorothy Phitey · Joined: 20 Jan 2008 Posts: 6

The nice man at the aquaria store recommended a canister filter called JBL
CrystalProfi 120, and after some research on google i decided to give it a
go. Once i had it set up in my sons bedroom and turned it on i had to check
to see if it was on or not, there were a few bubbles in the tubes which is
how i could tell it was on, that and the water coming out one of the tubes.
It is just that quiet. I am very happy with it, and the man told me to wash
the filter every 3 or 4 months - which is fantastic! I am guessing that im
still going to need to do the 1/3 water changes every week with my son?

Actually, it is so quiet that once i turned the air pump on and heard the
already quiet noise it makes i couldnt believe how quiet the filter is in
comparison. My son fell asleep with the filter on and the air bubbles
without any dramas.

The aquarium looks fantastic in his room! Now we just need to wait two or so
weeks for the filter to establish before we can get a few fish and see how
they do.

Thanks

D

"Tynk" wrote in message @q77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 19, 11:18?pm, "Dorothy Phitey" wrote:
> I would like to set up an aquarium in my sons bedroom, as fish make great
> pets and teach lessons about life and death, really a great idea for an 8
> year old. However i currently only have sponge filters to filter the
> water,
> and they tend to be noisy because they are old. So naturally a new filter
> system is needed as the noise of the filters is quite disturbing if you
> wanted to sleep in the same room. So what is the best sort of filter
> system
> i could get for an 80L tank that is quiet enough to not hear the humming
> noise, nor much splashing? I have kept nenos before so i know they are
> sensitive to water chemistry, so a good filter is high priority.
>
> Thanks for any adivce
>
> D

Here's the best thing you can do for solving noise issues from filters
and pumps in a bedroom.
Eclipse tanks!
They're the best. They're about as silent as could be when the water
level is kept properly.
The filter is actually two types of filtration. It has a typical
filter pad and a Bio wheel.
The filter's motor warms the tank too.
It comes with fluorescent lighting, so you great, bright color too.
They come in little 3 gallon tanks (great for male Bettas!), 6 gallons
and larger too.
The only drawback is that they're acrylic. They can be scratched
(which there are repair kits), and you can't be moving them around
when filled. I mean, you can...but you risk a stress fracture. If
that happens the tank needs replacing.
So just don't move them around when filled and that's not really an
issue. = )
I love them though.
There are other types of tanks like the Eclipse Systems. However, be
careful to know what you're getting.
Some have a cheapo filtration system, some a nightlight bulb instead
of a fluorescent strip light.
The bow tanks that are often next to or compared to the eclipse tanks
are NO comparison at all.
Just remember, the larger the better. Not just for the fish, but for a
beginner (your son) too. The small tanks have less room for error.

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Jan 25, 12:13�am, "Dorothy Phitey" wrote:
> >I have to ask what are you using to cyle the now?
> >Ammonia, a fish, fish food, Bio Spira?
> >Is it just filled up and running empty?
>
> Well the filter is just running, it needs a few weeks for the bacteria to
> establish and that needs to happen before fish are added. The man at the
> aquaria store said it will take up to 6 weeks, or i can buy some bacteria
> and put that in the filter and it should take half the time, but i gave that
> a miss. Am i doing something wrong? Im sorry, i only have experience with
> internal sponge filters that went on a wayyyy smaller tank, though the
> cleaning of canisters seems the same - wash in a bucket of aquarium water.
>
> >Yes, canister filters are great.
> >Being from the US, I don't know what size 80L was, so I was thinking
> >what type of tank would folks have in a child's bedroom.
> >Usually, we're talking pretty small tanks, where you wouldn't use a
> >canister. I have one on my 75 gallon and I just love it.
>
> 80L is about 20 gallons, so its a small sized tank in comparison to 75
> gallons. The tank itself was already in the house when we bought it, and has
> been in storage for years.
>
> D

Wow...I didn't know they made canister filters for small tanks.
Usually tanks 55 gallons or more would switch to canisters, but they
come out with new types so often that a small size canister filter
would be a good idea.

As for cycling.
Sorry to break it to you but the person who is "advising" you is
wrong.
Your tank will NOT cycle empty like that. In weeks it will be in the
exact same shape as when you set it up.
Without a source of "food", (ammonia) nitrifying bacteria just don't
pop up.
Being in the hobby for nearly 30 yrs now, I have learned the old ways,
the common ways, and changed with the times when new information
changed things.
Take cycling for instance.
It doesn't matter what type of filter you have, it grows nitrifying
bacteria all the same.
As far as I know, the only bacteria starters that have the CORRECT
stage of bacteria in them (according to current scientific studdies),
are BioSpira and Bactinettes.
The other products such as Start Zyme, BioZyme, Cycle, BacterBoost,
etc., all have the wrong type of bacteria in them.
They have Nitrobacter bacteria. The correct bacteria is Nitrospira.
The other products are not going to start your cycle, cycle your tank,
or do much good at all. Basically, a big waste of money for us....HUGE
money maker for them. People who use it and think they're not going to
go through "new tank symdrome" are quickly mistaken. They run out to
buy more thinking maybe they didn't use enough, etc.
What happens is the company makes money, the shops make money selling
it to you, your tank doesn't get any help cycling, and your fish
suffer anyway.
If you like, I can send you links explaining the nitrogen cycle in
your tank.
If you understand what's happening, everything else falls into place.
There are fishless cycling methods that are commonly used now a days,
because we know more about what happens to the fish during it.
Many fish are left with scarred up gill tissue from ammonia burns, or
even dead.
The up and downs of the ammonia levels is what can cause the damage
and deaths of fish during this time.
So when you fishless cycle, you're not harming any fish. It's a win
win.
You can do this buy either using household ammonia (no perfumes or
dyes, or additives, just plain ammonia), and adding drops of
ammonia,and using a test kit monitoring the levels. AI have a link
with the how to specifics if you like.
You can buy either BioSpira or Bactinetts. This stuff is miracle
stuff. It truly is.
I have used BioSpira several times when setting up tanks (large and
small) or when making a major change like switching gravel, etc.
You add this stuff to a running tank (like yours), then 24 hours later
you can stock your tank.
It's like adding fish to an established tank. However, not too many
shops carry BioSpira as it needs to be kept in a fridge. Since most
shops only have a freezer, it is hard to find. Only downfall with the
actual product (IMO), is that you can't see the product through the
foil package to make sure it's not been spoiled.
Like frozen fish food, if it's left out it spoils.
It should appear like cloudy water with itty bitty white-greyish bits
in it. If it has brown clumps and looks like fish poo....it's spoiled
and the bacteria have died..making it useless.
I've had this happen before, but was reimbursed by the shop owner. His
employee put the shipment on the shelf next to Cycle and Stress Zyme.
When the kid found out it was supposed to be kept in the fridge, it
was already way too late. The entire shipement was killed. = (
This is rare though, as most places that carry it keep it properly.
As for Bactinettes....I've not seen these and are not available in my
area of the US. I have heard the same great results and that they have
the same, proper, bacteria in them as BioSpira.
Seeding a new tank with an established tank's filter media or gravel.
Not squeezing the filter media, placing it into the new tank's filter
housing or even just adding it into the tank. Gravel seeding can be
done by either just adding the established gravel to your tank, or by
haning it in a nylon stocking (new of course, and rinse with water
before using), and add to the tank.
You can add fish food to the tank to let rot, then the nitrogen cycle
will start slowly.
You can use the fish to cycle. Not the best way, and should be last
resort.
30 yrs ago everyone used fish to cycle their tank. We simply didn't
know better.
There's even been a major change to the *basic* information about the
bacteria.
It used to be recommended to squeeze filter media from an established
tank to a new tank to "seed" it or add bacteria to cycle it.
It was also thought that by adding old tank water from an established
tank would do the same.
It does NOT.
This, and not using fish to cycle tanks any more are two of the
hardest things to convince longtime hobbyists to change.
Scientists recently found out that the bacteria excrete a glue like
substance and adhere themselves to all surfaces in the tank (and
filter). That means they're stuck like glue on everything. The walls,
the decor, the plants, the filter pad, the gravel, rocks. Everything.
They do *not* float about in the water, making adding old water
useless for bacteria reasons useless.
They do not come off easily at all. Making the "squeezings" from a
filter useless. You're just adding gunk.
So have I totally bombarded you with too much information, lol.
Oh, and if you want any links, or need anything explained further,
just ask. = )

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Jan 25, 12:13�am, "Dorothy Phitey" wrote:

Oh, I forgot.....
Here's a link to a wonderful group.
Unlike these groups, trolls are not allowed and neither is spam.
You can talk fish without all the other "noise" around.
It's The Freshwater Aquarium.......
http://groups.google.com/group/The-Freshwater-Aquarium?lnk=li&hl=en

You have to sign up, but it's only so that they can keep out the
trolls...that's all.
It's only a matter of time before the Troll King gets in here too.
Trust me, you don't want to meet him.
Currently, he impersonates peoples names and then posts vulgar things,
or harasses people to no end.

Dorothy Phitey · Joined: 20 Jan 2008 Posts: 6

>I have to ask what are you using to cyle the now?
>Ammonia, a fish, fish food, Bio Spira?
>Is it just filled up and running empty?

Well the filter is just running, it needs a few weeks for the bacteria to
establish and that needs to happen before fish are added. The man at the
aquaria store said it will take up to 6 weeks, or i can buy some bacteria
and put that in the filter and it should take half the time, but i gave that
a miss. Am i doing something wrong? Im sorry, i only have experience with
internal sponge filters that went on a wayyyy smaller tank, though the
cleaning of canisters seems the same - wash in a bucket of aquarium water.

>Yes, canister filters are great.
>Being from the US, I don't know what size 80L was, so I was thinking
>what type of tank would folks have in a child's bedroom.
>Usually, we're talking pretty small tanks, where you wouldn't use a
>canister. I have one on my 75 gallon and I just love it.

80L is about 20 gallons, so its a small sized tank in comparison to 75
gallons. The tank itself was already in the house when we bought it, and has
been in storage for years.

D

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Jan 25, 12:13�am, "Dorothy Phitey" wrote:

> 80L is about 20 gallons, so its a small sized tank in comparison to 75
> gallons. The tank itself was already in the house when we bought it, and has
> been in storage for years.
>
> D

Hi Dorothy.
I talked with others who know the filter that you have, and it's a
good filter for the tank.
I don't know the metric system and the info I kept finding on it was
in it, or german.
Anyway, did you choose a cycling method?

Bob · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 5

"Tynk" wrote in message @f47g2000hsd.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 25, 12:13?am, "Dorothy Phitey" wrote:
> >I have to ask what are you using to cyle the now?
> >Ammonia, a fish, fish food, Bio Spira?
> >Is it just filled up and running empty?
>
> Well the filter is just running, it needs a few weeks for the bacteria to
> establish and that needs to happen before fish are added. The man at the
> aquaria store said it will take up to 6 weeks, or i can buy some bacteria
> and put that in the filter and it should take half the time, but i gave
> that
> a miss. Am i doing something wrong? Im sorry, i only have experience with
> internal sponge filters that went on a wayyyy smaller tank, though the
> cleaning of canisters seems the same - wash in a bucket of aquarium water.
>
> >Yes, canister filters are great.
> >Being from the US, I don't know what size 80L was, so I was thinking
> >what type of tank would folks have in a child's bedroom.
> >Usually, we're talking pretty small tanks, where you wouldn't use a
> >canister. I have one on my 75 gallon and I just love it.
>
> 80L is about 20 gallons, so its a small sized tank in comparison to 75
> gallons. The tank itself was already in the house when we bought it, and
> has
> been in storage for years.
>
> D

Wow...I didn't know they made canister filters for small tanks.
Usually tanks 55 gallons or more would switch to canisters, but they
come out with new types so often that a small size canister filter
would be a good idea.

As for cycling.
Sorry to break it to you but the person who is "advising" you is
wrong.
Your tank will NOT cycle empty like that. In weeks it will be in the
exact same shape as when you set it up.
Without a source of "food", (ammonia) nitrifying bacteria just don't
pop up.
Being in the hobby for nearly 30 yrs now, I have learned the old ways,
the common ways, and changed with the times when new information
changed things.
Take cycling for instance.
It doesn't matter what type of filter you have, it grows nitrifying
bacteria all the same.
As far as I know, the only bacteria starters that have the CORRECT
stage of bacteria in them (according to current scientific studdies),
are BioSpira and Bactinettes.
The other products such as Start Zyme, BioZyme, Cycle, BacterBoost,
etc., all have the wrong type of bacteria in them.
They have Nitrobacter bacteria. The correct bacteria is Nitrospira.
The other products are not going to start your cycle, cycle your tank,
or do much good at all. Basically, a big waste of money for us....HUGE
money maker for them. People who use it and think they're not going to
go through "new tank symdrome" are quickly mistaken. They run out to
buy more thinking maybe they didn't use enough, etc.
What happens is the company makes money, the shops make money selling
it to you, your tank doesn't get any help cycling, and your fish
suffer anyway.
If you like, I can send you links explaining the nitrogen cycle in
your tank.
If you understand what's happening, everything else falls into place.
There are fishless cycling methods that are commonly used now a days,
because we know more about what happens to the fish during it.
Many fish are left with scarred up gill tissue from ammonia burns, or
even dead.
The up and downs of the ammonia levels is what can cause the damage
and deaths of fish during this time.
So when you fishless cycle, you're not harming any fish. It's a win
win.
You can do this buy either using household ammonia (no perfumes or
dyes, or additives, just plain ammonia), and adding drops of
ammonia,and using a test kit monitoring the levels. AI have a link
with the how to specifics if you like.
You can buy either BioSpira or Bactinetts. This stuff is miracle
stuff. It truly is.
I have used BioSpira several times when setting up tanks (large and
small) or when making a major change like switching gravel, etc.
You add this stuff to a running tank (like yours), then 24 hours later
you can stock your tank.
It's like adding fish to an established tank. However, not too many
shops carry BioSpira as it needs to be kept in a fridge. Since most
shops only have a freezer, it is hard to find. Only downfall with the
actual product (IMO), is that you can't see the product through the
foil package to make sure it's not been spoiled.
Like frozen fish food, if it's left out it spoils.
It should appear like cloudy water with itty bitty white-greyish bits
in it. If it has brown clumps and looks like fish poo....it's spoiled
and the bacteria have died..making it useless.
I've had this happen before, but was reimbursed by the shop owner. His
employee put the shipment on the shelf next to Cycle and Stress Zyme.
When the kid found out it was supposed to be kept in the fridge, it
was already way too late. The entire shipement was killed. = (
This is rare though, as most places that carry it keep it properly.
As for Bactinettes....I've not seen these and are not available in my
area of the US. I have heard the same great results and that they have
the same, proper, bacteria in them as BioSpira.
Seeding a new tank with an established tank's filter media or gravel.
Not squeezing the filter media, placing it into the new tank's filter
housing or even just adding it into the tank. Gravel seeding can be
done by either just adding the established gravel to your tank, or by
haning it in a nylon stocking (new of course, and rinse with water
before using), and add to the tank.
You can add fish food to the tank to let rot, then the nitrogen cycle
will start slowly.
You can use the fish to cycle. Not the best way, and should be last
resort.
30 yrs ago everyone used fish to cycle their tank. We simply didn't
know better.
There's even been a major change to the *basic* information about the
bacteria.
It used to be recommended to squeeze filter media from an established
tank to a new tank to "seed" it or add bacteria to cycle it.
It was also thought that by adding old tank water from an established
tank would do the same.
It does NOT.
This, and not using fish to cycle tanks any more are two of the
hardest things to convince longtime hobbyists to change.
Scientists recently found out that the bacteria excrete a glue like
substance and adhere themselves to all surfaces in the tank (and
filter). That means they're stuck like glue on everything. The walls,
the decor, the plants, the filter pad, the gravel, rocks. Everything.
They do *not* float about in the water, making adding old water
useless for bacteria reasons useless.
They do not come off easily at all. Making the "squeezings" from a
filter useless. You're just adding gunk.
So have I totally bombarded you with too much information, lol.
Oh, and if you want any links, or need anything explained further,
just ask. = )

Good info...
I've been using the adding drops of ammonia method for 40 years or so. A
good old method for cycling a tank for sure.
Bob

woodticks · Joined: 05 Feb 2008 Posts: 2

I have penguin power heads on subsand filters on my 100 gal hex, u dont hear
them running even with the air injection. I use them in all my tanks, got
tired of the double piston pump....
and the whispers pumps that vibrate......

"Dorothy Phitey" wrote in message $0$13959$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
>I would like to set up an aquarium in my sons bedroom, as fish make great
>pets and teach lessons about life and death, really a great idea for an 8
>year old. However i currently only have sponge filters to filter the water,
>and they tend to be noisy because they are old. So naturally a new filter
>system is needed as the noise of the filters is quite disturbing if you
>wanted to sleep in the same room. So what is the best sort of filter system
>i could get for an 80L tank that is quiet enough to not hear the humming
>noise, nor much splashing? I have kept nenos before so i know they are
>sensitive to water chemistry, so a good filter is high priority.
>
> Thanks for any adivce
>
> D
>

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Feb 4, 10:25�pm, "woodticks" wrote:
> I have penguin power heads on subsand filters on my 100 gal hex, u dont hear
> them �running even with the air injection. I use them in all my tanks, got
> tired of the double piston pump....
> and the whispers pumps that vibrate......
>
> - Show quoted text -

I tossed out all my undergravel filters many moons ago.
There's much better options for filtration these days, IMO.
Hands down, the power filters (HOB's) and canisters are the way to go.
When the tank is properly filled to the correct level, they're silent.
There's no pumps to make vibrating noises, no bubbles gurgling away.
Also, I don't care for powerheads in most tanks unless they contain
fish from fast moving rivers.

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Feb 5, 6:10�pm, "Dorothy Phitey" wrote:
> >Hi Dorothy.
> >I talked with others who know the filter that you have, and it's a
> >good filter for the tank.
> >I don't know the metric system and the info I kept finding on it was
> >in it, or german.
> >Anyway, did you choose a cycling method?
>
> Hello.
> Yes we have been putting a pinch of fish food in to let it rot as suggested
> on many webpages. My son is getting excited about getting fish so i think
> we'll go buy 2 platys to start off (simply to settle down the "are we
> getting fish TODAY???" �questions he asks several times every day for the
> last week) and make sure the tank is well cycled before introducing any more
> fish. Platys should be a good cycle fish as they are hardy, right?
>
> Yes the filter is fantastic, really silent and so far it has been effective
> in keeping the tank clean (though that might change once there are fish in
> it!). Is there another newsgroup that relates to aquarium equipment?
>
> >I tossed out all my undergravel filters many moons ago.
> >There's much better options for filtration these days, IMO.
> >Hands down, the power filters (HOB's) and canisters are the way to go.
> >When the tank is properly filled to the correct level, they're silent.
> >There's no pumps to make vibrating noises, no bubbles gurgling away.
> >Also, I don't care for powerheads in most tanks unless they contain
> >fish from fast moving rivers.
>
> Actually i have a question about the filters and air pumps. The tank setup i
> have is so that the outtake tube from the canister filter is running along
> the surface of the water against the back wall parallel with the water
> surface. It is 'disturbing' the surface of the water, but not to the extent
> that its splashing or causing air bubbles, the water comes out the of tube
> toward one of the corners and the water level rises about a centimeter in
> the corner before rippling back towards the centre (i hope im giving an
> adequate description here). I have read that an air pump is not needed in a
> tank if the surface of the water is disturbed to allow air to enter the
> water? I can clearly see the water being 'disturbed' but is there a way to
> tell if it is enough to go without the pump? Its just a matter of
> aesthetics, the less cables running to the tank the better, but currently
> there IS a pump, and every few days it needs to be positioned differently as
> it starts to vibrate quite loudly.
>
> Thank you all for your advice, i thought i knew everything there is to know,
> but now i can see im only a beginner!!!
>
> D

Hi Dorothy.
I'm so glad you asked if there was another site to talk about fish and
stuff.
It's a moderated group that was formed by many knowledgeable hobbyists
that got sick and tired of trolls harassing everyone.
I currentlly have the idiot troll king impersonating my screen name
all over usenet.
He's not allowed there (in fact the group was formed because of him
and one of the other people he harassed for over 2 yrs), so it's safe
to post there and no bullcrappy to put up with.
You will have to sing up and join it, but please do.
It doesn't cost ya anything to join, and they don't do anything with
the info they ask for.
I know the folks in charge and they're good people.
It's called The Freshwater Aquarium.
Here's the link:

http://groups.google.com/group/The-Freshwater-Aquarium?lnk=li&hl=en

Regarding your Q about the water's surface, and if it's enough
turbulance for O2 exchange....I womdered that myself years ago when I
changed from undergravel filters and sponges to power filters and
canisters.
I just never asked the Q. lol
I'd been in the hobby for so many years by then, a breeder of both
angels and bettas, with what I thought to be a beginner Q.
I was too chicken to ask, hehe.
I'll probably say the very same thing on TFA (the group's initials)
when you post your Q about it.
(see...I've already got you posting there....a done deal.... just a
matter of "paper work"...lol)
Regarding Platies and if they're hardy enough for cycling....
That's a loaded question.
In reality, there is no "good" fish for cycling. Any fish used for
cycling can be harmed.
The degree of harm depends on the keeper.
Water changes and gravel vacuuming are a must, and cannot be slacked
off on when you use fish to cycle.
If somebody tells you *not* to do water changes during the cycling
period, they're wrong. Deadly wrong.
It's an old myth that won't go away.
The nitrifying bacteria that you are trying to build up during the
cycling period are sticky. They don't float in the water.
Doing water changes doesn't remove them.
Vacuuming the gravel doesn't remove them. They're stuck like glue.
Proper tank maintenance during the cycling period is what keeps the
level of harm done to a minimum.
Which fish to use for cycling obviously depends on how much stress
that species can handle.
Platies....you can.
You said you're adding fish food to rot.
Have you checked ammonia levels yet?

Dorothy Phitey · Joined: 20 Jan 2008 Posts: 6

>Hi Dorothy.
>I talked with others who know the filter that you have, and it's a
>good filter for the tank.
>I don't know the metric system and the info I kept finding on it was
>in it, or german.
>Anyway, did you choose a cycling method?

Hello.
Yes we have been putting a pinch of fish food in to let it rot as suggested
on many webpages. My son is getting excited about getting fish so i think
we'll go buy 2 platys to start off (simply to settle down the "are we
getting fish TODAY???" questions he asks several times every day for the
last week) and make sure the tank is well cycled before introducing any more
fish. Platys should be a good cycle fish as they are hardy, right?

Yes the filter is fantastic, really silent and so far it has been effective
in keeping the tank clean (though that might change once there are fish in
it!). Is there another newsgroup that relates to aquarium equipment?

>I tossed out all my undergravel filters many moons ago.
>There's much better options for filtration these days, IMO.
>Hands down, the power filters (HOB's) and canisters are the way to go.
>When the tank is properly filled to the correct level, they're silent.
>There's no pumps to make vibrating noises, no bubbles gurgling away.
>Also, I don't care for powerheads in most tanks unless they contain
>fish from fast moving rivers.

Actually i have a question about the filters and air pumps. The tank setup i
have is so that the outtake tube from the canister filter is running along
the surface of the water against the back wall parallel with the water
surface. It is 'disturbing' the surface of the water, but not to the extent
that its splashing or causing air bubbles, the water comes out the of tube
toward one of the corners and the water level rises about a centimeter in
the corner before rippling back towards the centre (i hope im giving an
adequate description here). I have read that an air pump is not needed in a
tank if the surface of the water is disturbed to allow air to enter the
water? I can clearly see the water being 'disturbed' but is there a way to
tell if it is enough to go without the pump? Its just a matter of
aesthetics, the less cables running to the tank the better, but currently
there IS a pump, and every few days it needs to be positioned differently as
it starts to vibrate quite loudly.

Thank you all for your advice, i thought i knew everything there is to know,
but now i can see im only a beginner!!!

D