Newbie Seeking Advice on Water

Neil Webster · Joined: 29 Dec 2007 Posts: 2

Hello everyone,

I received an aquarium kit and am researching how to set it up. This is a
long-time wish finally coming to fruition, but I have no experience with
aquariums (or is it aquaria?). It is a simple 10 gallon rectangular glass
tank. I hope to be able to set up a nice freshwater environment for
tropical fish. I have read several FAQs and have borrowed several books
from my local library. However, I have not found an answer to this
question.

My house is supplied with water from a very old well. I have the water
going through a filter system and a softener, however, the raw water is very
bad (iron bacteria, causing rust stains on everything, odor/taste bad) and
these do not get rid of it all. They help for our (human) purposes, but we
still buy filtered water from our local grocery store for drinking and
cooking. The purchased water is municipal tap water (Detroit, MI) that is
filtered through a system at the store (Culligan system, several different
filters including activated charcoal, reverse osmosis, and ultraviolet
light).

Which water would be best for me to use in the aquarium? I am concerned
about the well water having bad things in it, particularly the iron
bacteria, but also concerned about the store water being too clean.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Archived from group: rec>aquaria>freshwater>misc

AquariumFatasies · Joined: 24 Dec 2007 Posts: 17

On Dec 29, 2:22 am, "Neil Webster" wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I received an aquarium kit and am researching how to set it up. This is a
> long-time wish finally coming to fruition, but I have no experience with
> aquariums (or is it aquaria?). It is a simple 10 gallon rectangular glass
> tank. I hope to be able to set up a nice freshwater environment for
> tropical fish. I have read several FAQs and have borrowed several books
> from my local library. However, I have not found an answer to this
> question.
>
> My house is supplied with water from a very old well. I have the water
> going through a filter system and a softener, however, the raw water is very
> bad (iron bacteria, causing rust stains on everything, odor/taste bad) and
> these do not get rid of it all. They help for our (human) purposes, but we
> still buy filtered water from our local grocery store for drinking and
> cooking. The purchased water is municipal tap water (Detroit, MI) that is
> filtered through a system at the store (Culligan system, several different
> filters including activated charcoal, reverse osmosis, and ultraviolet
> light).
>
> Which water would be best for me to use in the aquarium? I am concerned
> about the well water having bad things in it, particularly the iron
> bacteria, but also concerned about the store water being too clean.
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thank you.

Well water in a lot of places beside haivng undesired iron bacteria
etc is also low in dissolved oxygen.........I would opt for bottled
water that is sold in stores in 5 gal; jugs etc. I wuld make sure its
RO (Reverse Osmosis) water. A lot of places sells RODI water and that
is fine for a tank but it normally requires some pretty heavy
supplementing to use in freshwater tanks as its essentially water with
99.9999999% of everything thats in it stripped out. It may also be
necessary to buffer or supplement the RO or bottled water. You need to
get a PH, nitrite, ammonia and KH or water hardness test kit, and the
PH and hardness test kit will determine what additivies (supplements)
you may have to add...........

So set up your aquarium, and let it cycle without any fish intially
and take some water readings and make any adjustments to get yuor
water parameters where they need to be for the type of fish you
intend to keep. Once cycled add a fish or two at a time and do not
overload it. Its also b est to setup a tank and let it run for a few
days or week or so to cycle and to operational check the filters , get
the heater adjusted and in general give it a trial run to see its all
working as it should be, before adding live critters....I would stay
away from goldfish etc as they will soon outgrow a tank of the size
you have. Live bearer fish are quite hardy and easy to keep, however
withtheir spawing its easy to get inundated with a lot of undesired
fish..........Use caution in picking out yuor fish at the store so yu
get fish that get along together and do well in a community type tank,
unless your looking for a specific breed.....Pay close attention to
the fish so you do not get sickly or emanicated fish. Ask the store to
toss in a bit of food so you can see them actually eatingm, and stay
away from those that refuse food..........Have fun and good luck

Neil Webster · Joined: 29 Dec 2007 Posts: 2

On Dec 29, 2:22 am, "Neil Webster" wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I received an aquarium kit and am researching how to set it up. This is a
> long-time wish finally coming to fruition, but I have no experience with
> aquariums (or is it aquaria?). It is a simple 10 gallon rectangular glass
> tank. I hope to be able to set up a nice freshwater environment for
> tropical fish. I have read several FAQs and have borrowed several books
> from my local library. However, I have not found an answer to this
> question.
>
> My house is supplied with water from a very old well. I have the water
> going through a filter system and a softener, however, the raw water is
very
> bad (iron bacteria, causing rust stains on everything, odor/taste bad) and
> these do not get rid of it all. They help for our (human) purposes, but we
> still buy filtered water from our local grocery store for drinking and
> cooking. The purchased water is municipal tap water (Detroit, MI) that is
> filtered through a system at the store (Culligan system, several different
> filters including activated charcoal, reverse osmosis, and ultraviolet
> light).
>
> Which water would be best for me to use in the aquarium? I am concerned
> about the well water having bad things in it, particularly the iron
> bacteria, but also concerned about the store water being too clean.
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thank you.

Well water in a lot of places beside haivng undesired iron bacteria
etc is also low in dissolved oxygen.........I would opt for bottled
water that is sold in stores in 5 gal; jugs etc. I wuld make sure its
RO (Reverse Osmosis) water. A lot of places sells RODI water and that
is fine for a tank but it normally requires some pretty heavy
supplementing to use in freshwater tanks as its essentially water with
99.9999999% of everything thats in it stripped out. It may also be
necessary to buffer or supplement the RO or bottled water. You need to
get a PH, nitrite, ammonia and KH or water hardness test kit, and the
PH and hardness test kit will determine what additivies (supplements)
you may have to add...........

So set up your aquarium, and let it cycle without any fish intially
and take some water readings and make any adjustments to get yuor
water parameters where they need to be for the type of fish you
intend to keep. Once cycled add a fish or two at a time and do not
overload it. Its also b est to setup a tank and let it run for a few
days or week or so to cycle and to operational check the filters , get
the heater adjusted and in general give it a trial run to see its all
working as it should be, before adding live critters....I would stay
away from goldfish etc as they will soon outgrow a tank of the size
you have. Live bearer fish are quite hardy and easy to keep, however
withtheir spawing its easy to get inundated with a lot of undesired
fish..........Use caution in picking out yuor fish at the store so yu
get fish that get along together and do well in a community type tank,
unless your looking for a specific breed.....Pay close attention to
the fish so you do not get sickly or emanicated fish. Ask the store to
toss in a bit of food so you can see them actually eatingm, and stay
away from those that refuse food..........Have fun and good luck

Thanks for the advice. I am still in the planning stages, still need to buy
several items, including stand, heater, gravel, decor, etc. I plan on
setting up the aquarium and getting the nitrogen cycle going without fish
(or adding one fish at a time as some have recommended). I also am still
looking into what type of fish to place (leaning toward tetras but that may
change). I will be going to local PetSmart this week to get some of the
necessary items like stand and water test kits. I just don't want to start
with one type of water and find it too difficult to get just right (RO water
and adjusting KH and pH) or another type that may be harmful to the fish
(well water with right hardness and pH but harmful iron bacteria). Thanks.

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Dec 30, 12:37ï¿½am, "Neil Webster" wrote:
> On Dec 29, 2:22 am, "Neil Webster" wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hello everyone,
>
> > I received an aquarium kit and am researching how to set it up. This is a
> > long-time wish finally coming to fruition, but I have no experience with
> > aquariums (or is it aquaria?). It is a simple 10 gallon rectangular glass
> > tank. I hope to be able to set up a nice freshwater environment for
> > tropical fish. I have read several FAQs and have borrowed several books
> > from my local library. However, I have not found an answer to this
> > question.
>
> > My house is supplied with water from a very old well. I have the water
> > going through a filter system and a softener, however, the raw water is
> very
> > bad (iron bacteria, causing rust stains on everything, odor/taste bad) and
> > these do not get rid of it all. They help for our (human) purposes, but we
> > still buy filtered water from our local grocery store for drinking and
> > cooking. The purchased water is municipal tap water (Detroit, MI) that is
> > filtered through a system at the store (Culligan system, several different
> > filters including activated charcoal, reverse osmosis, and ultraviolet
> > light).
>
> > Which water would be best for me to use in the aquarium? I am concerned
> > about the well water having bad things in it, particularly the iron
> > bacteria, but also concerned about the store water being too clean.
>
> > Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> > Thank you.
>
> Well water in a lot of places beside haivng undesired iron bacteria
> etc is also low in dissolved oxygen.........I would opt for bottled
> water that is sold in stores in 5 gal; jugs etc. I wuld make sure its
> RO (Reverse Osmosis) water. A lot of places sells RODI water and that
> is fine for a tank but it normally requires some pretty heavy
> supplementing to use in freshwater tanks as its essentially water with
> 99.9999999% of everything thats in it stripped out. It may also be
> necessary to buffer or supplement the RO or bottled water. You need to
> get a PH, nitrite, ammonia and KH or water hardness test kit, and the
> PH and hardness test kit will determine what additivies (supplements)
> you may have to add...........
>
> So set up your aquarium, and let it cycle without any fish intially
> and take some water readings and make any adjustments to get yuor
> water parameters where they need to be for the type of fish you
> intend to keep. Once cycled add a fish or two at a time and do not
> overload it. Its also b est to setup a tank and let it run for a few
> days or week or so to cycle and to operational check the filters , get
> the heater adjusted and in general give it a trial run to see its all
> working as it should be, before adding live critters....I would stay
> away from goldfish etc as they will soon outgrow a tank of the size
> you have. Live bearer fish are quite hardy and easy to keep, however
> withtheir spawing its easy to get inundated with a lot of undesired
> fish..........Use caution in picking out yuor fish at the store so yu
> get fish that get along together and do well in a community type tank,
> unless your looking for a specific breed.....Pay close attention to
> the fish so you do not get sickly or emanicated fish. Ask the store to
> toss in a bit of food so you can see them actually eatingm, and stay
> away from those that refuse food..........Have fun and good luck
>
> Thanks for the advice. ï¿½I am still in the planning stages, still need to buy
> several items, including stand, heater, gravel, decor, etc. ï¿½I plan on
> setting up the aquarium and getting the nitrogen cycle going without fish
> (or adding one fish at a time as some have recommended). ï¿½I also am still
> looking into what type of fish to place (leaning toward tetras but that may
> change). ï¿½I will be going to local PetSmart this week to get some of the
> necessary items like stand and water test kits. ï¿½I just don't want to start
> with one type of water and find it too difficult to get just right (RO water
> and adjusting KH and pH) or another type that may be harmful to the fish
> (well water with right hardness and pH but harmful iron bacteria). ï¿½Thanks.- Hide quoted text -
>
Hi there.
Being that you are working with (in the fish world), quite a small
tank.
Being a newbie you may think differently. = )
The bigger the tank, the more room for error.
A small tank is less forgiving, so it would be wise to keep this tank
lightly stocked until you get some experience under your belt.
I applaud you for researching first. That's so great! Believe it or
not, way too many people just get a tank, fill it with water and bags
of fish the same day. Then they wonder why their fish all died. = (
Your idea of Tetras is fine, however, the type of tetra matters in
your situation.
Neons are not a good tetra for newer tanks, and absolutely not for
cycling with.
Other than that, they're pretty hardy. I've had many batches do quite
well in very hard, city well water. Our town's water supply is from
several deep wells around the town, not private wells.
Don't believe the old myth about 1 inch of fish oer gallon of water,
as it's quite outdated, and frankly doesn't work for most species.
Think of adding a 10" oscar to a 10g tank, or a couple of 5" Red Devil
males. Not going to work.
However it works perfectly with thin bodied, inch long fish that have
no territory requirements (like guppies).
When it comes to fishless cycling, what type are you thinking about
doing...or have you not gotten that far yet?
There's a couple of bacteria starter products out there now with the
correct type of bacteria in it. Depending on what side of the world
you're on....Here in the states..BioSpira made by Marineland.
UK...Bactinettes. I'm hoping these have made it across the pond or
soon will be. Then maybe the prices will go down.
Unfortunately, the other products out there that claim to be starters
have the wrong nitrifying bacteria in them and don't really do much of
anything to "start" the cycling.
They have a later stage bacteria (nitrobacter bacteria), where as
BioSpira has the first stage...the start up bacteria (nitrospira).
Ones that don't do much are:
BioZyme, StartZyme, StressZyme, Cycle, BacterBoost....etc...
These may be helpfull after the process has already started, but isn't
the purpose to help start it up. How these companies can get away with
claiming what they do makes me very mad. They're misleading the
public. However, they can because their product contains *A* bacteria
in the cycling process. (I believe there are 3 types....but it's been
years since I read the study).
The easiest way to cycle your tank would be to use BioSpira (or
Bactinettes if you can find them). You set the tank up, add BioSpira,
and fully stock your tank the next day. You then treat the tank as a
fully seasoned tank and after the first week, start up your normal
weekly water changes.
This product is great, and truly does what it claims.
However, it must be refrigerated properly. If left to warm or gets
frozen, the live bacteria dies and the product becomes useless (it
looks like clumpy brown stuff in water when dead). It should appear
like cloudy water with little teeny bits in it.
It's also hard to find because not too many stores have a refrigerator
(most have freezers only). It's also not cheap.
A 1 oz pack (like what you'd need) cost between $10-15 (around IL,
USA). IMO, completely worth it. I've used it several times, with 100%
great results.
You can also go a slower, but easy route too, cycling with household
ammonia (plain, no perfumes or additives of any kind).
Did you find info in your researching about the different types of
cycling?
I can email you links if you need any info.
Welcome to the hobby!
= )

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Dec 30, 9:19Â am, Tynk wrote:
> On Dec 30, 12:37ï¿½am, "Neil Webster" wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Dec 29, 2:22 am, "Neil Webster" wrote:
>
> > > Hello everyone,
>
> > > I received an aquarium kit and am researching how to set it up. This is a
> > > long-time wish finally coming to fruition, but I have no experience with
> > > aquariums (or is it aquaria?). It is a simple 10 gallon rectangular glass
> > > tank. I hope to be able to set up a nice freshwater environment for
> > > tropical fish. I have read several FAQs and have borrowed several books
> > > from my local library. However, I have not found an answer to this
> > > question.
>
> > > My house is supplied with water from a very old well. I have the water
> > > going through a filter system and a softener, however, the raw water is
> > very
> > > bad (iron bacteria, causing rust stains on everything, odor/taste bad) and
> > > these do not get rid of it all. They help for our (human) purposes, but we
> > > still buy filtered water from our local grocery store for drinking and
> > > cooking. The purchased water is municipal tap water (Detroit, MI) that is
> > > filtered through a system at the store (Culligan system, several different
> > > filters including activated charcoal, reverse osmosis, and ultraviolet
> > > light).
>
> > > Which water would be best for me to use in the aquarium? I am concerned
> > > about the well water having bad things in it, particularly the iron
> > > bacteria, but also concerned about the store water being too clean.
>
> > > Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> > > Thank you.
>
> > Well water in a lot of places beside haivng undesired iron bacteria
> > etc is also low in dissolved oxygen.........I would opt for bottled
> > water that is sold in stores in 5 gal; jugs etc. I wuld make sure its
> > RO (Reverse Osmosis) water. A lot of places sells RODI water and that
> > is fine for a tank but it normally requires some pretty heavy
> > supplementing to use in freshwater tanks as its essentially water with
> > 99.9999999% of everything thats in it stripped out. It may also be
> > necessary to buffer or supplement the RO or bottled water. You need to
> > get a PH, nitrite, ammonia and KH or water hardness test kit, and the
> > PH and hardness test kit will determine what additivies (supplements)
> > you may have to add...........
>
> > So set up your aquarium, and let it cycle without any fish intially
> > and take some water readings and make any adjustments to get yuor
> > water parameters where they need to be for the type of fish you
> > intend to keep. Once cycled add a fish or two at a time and do not
> > overload it. Its also b est to setup a tank and let it run for a few
> > days or week or so to cycle and to operational check the filters , get
> > the heater adjusted and in general give it a trial run to see its all
> > working as it should be, before adding live critters....I would stay
> > away from goldfish etc as they will soon outgrow a tank of the size
> > you have. Live bearer fish are quite hardy and easy to keep, however
> > withtheir spawing its easy to get inundated with a lot of undesired
> > fish..........Use caution in picking out yuor fish at the store so yu
> > get fish that get along together and do well in a community type tank,
> > unless your looking for a specific breed.....Pay close attention to
> > the fish so you do not get sickly or emanicated fish. Ask the store to
> > toss in a bit of food so you can see them actually eatingm, and stay
> > away from those that refuse food..........Have fun and good luck
>
> > Thanks for the advice. ï¿½I am still in the planning stages, still need to buy
> > several items, including stand, heater, gravel, decor, etc. ï¿½I plan on
> > setting up the aquarium and getting the nitrogen cycle going without fish
> > (or adding one fish at a time as some have recommended). ï¿½I also am still
> > looking into what type of fish to place (leaning toward tetras but that may
> > change). ï¿½I will be going to local PetSmart this week to get some of the
> > necessary items like stand and water test kits. ï¿½I just don't want to start
> > with one type of water and find it too difficult to get just right (RO water
> > and adjusting KH and pH) or another type that may be harmful to the fish
> > (well water with right hardness and pH but harmful iron bacteria). ï¿½Thanks.- Hide quoted text -
>
> Hi there.
> Being that you are working with (in the fish world), quite a small
> tank.
> Being a newbie you may think differently. Â = )
> The bigger the tank, the more room for error.
> A small tank is less forgiving, so it would be wise to keep this tank
> lightly stocked until you get some experience under your belt.
> I applaud you for researching first. That's so great! Believe it or
> not, way too many people just get a tank, fill it with water and bags
> of fish the same day. Then they wonder why their fish all died. = (
> Your idea of Tetras is fine, however, the type of tetra matters in
> your situation.
> Neons are not a good tetra for newer tanks, and absolutely not for
> cycling with.
> Other than that, they're pretty hardy. I've had many batches do quite
> well in very hard, city well water. Our town's water supply is from
> several deep wells around the town, not private wells.
> Don't believe the old myth about 1 inch of fish oer gallon of water,
> as it's quite outdated, and frankly doesn't work for most species.
> Think of adding a 10" oscar to a 10g tank, or a couple of 5" Red Devil
> males. Not going to work.
> However it works perfectly with thin bodied, inch long fish that have
> no territory requirements (like guppies).
> When it comes to fishless cycling, what type are you thinking about
> doing...or have you not gotten that far yet?
> There's a couple of bacteria starter products out there now with the
> correct type of bacteria in it. Depending on what side of the world
> you're on....Here in the states..BioSpira made by Marineland.
> UK...Bactinettes. I'm hoping these have made it across the pond or
> soon will be. Then maybe the prices will go down.
> Unfortunately, the other products out there that claim to be starters
> have the wrong nitrifying bacteria in them and don't really do much of
> anything to "start" the cycling.
> They have a later stage bacteria (nitrobacter bacteria), where as
> BioSpira has the first stage...the start up bacteria (nitrospira).
> Ones that don't do much are:
> BioZyme, StartZyme, StressZyme, Cycle, BacterBoost....etc...
> These may be helpfull after the process has already started, but isn't
> the purpose to help start it up. How these companies can get away with
> claiming what they do makes me very mad. They're misleading the
> public. However, they can because their product contains *A* Â bacteria
> in the cycling process. (I believe there are 3 types....but it's been
> years since I read the study).
> The easiest way to cycle your tank would be to use BioSpira (or
> Bactinettes if you can find them). You set the tank up, add BioSpira,
> and fully stock your tank the next day. You then treat the tank as a
> fully seasoned tank and after the first week, start up your normal
> weekly water changes.
> This product is great, and truly does what it claims.
> However, it must be refrigerated properly. If left to warm or gets
> frozen, the live bacteria dies and the product becomes useless (it
> looks like clumpy brown stuff in water when dead). It should appear
> like cloudy water with little teeny bits in it.
> It's also hard to find because not too many stores have a refrigerator
> (most have freezers only). It's also not cheap.
> A 1 oz pack (like what you'd need) cost between $10-15 (around IL,
> USA). IMO, completely worth it. I've used it several times, with 100%
> great results.
> You can also go a slower, but easy route Â too, cycling with household
> ammonia (plain, no perfumes or additives of any kind).
> Did you find info in your researching about the different types of
> cycling?
> I can email you links if you need any info.
> Welcome to the hobby!
> = )- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Apparently somebody never heard of refrigerated trucks.
= O wow!
What an invention. Then there's this new "box" too. It keeps things
cold in the stores!
Unreal!
As for how well BioSpira works, a simple search on that will show the
truth.
This other poster will attack anything I say, so pay no attention to
it.
As long as he's helpful to you, great. Just be warned.
I'm sure he'll start posting in one of his many other names to try and
fool people, and cause trouble.
Or.....
Maybe he'll act like a grown up and let everyone help this person
start their tank out right.

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Dec 30, 3:47ï¿½pm, AquariumFatasies wrote:

You obvious didn't check out BioSpria at the shop, or the person you
spoke to was ignorant of the product.
There isn't a shelf life date on the pack of BioSpira.
After it's opened, yes...then it has a 7 day shelf life inthe
frige....however, that after it's opened.
Funny how you left that part out.
Anyone can do a simple search on BioSpira.
I urge them to, as you cannot believe anything this other moron says.
Anything I say can be checked for fact, and I urge the original poster
to do so.
Roy's personal opinions against the product are only to make jabs at
me personally.
If it was somebody else saying the same thing it would be different.
I'm simply trying to give out facts (that can be checked for
accuracy), he's giving out false advice and bad opinions.

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Dec 31 2007, 8:50ï¿½am, AquariumFatasies wrote:

> I stand on what I posted. Bio whatebver is a waste of money and
> nothing but snake oil and is a money maker for the manufactuer and a
> rip off for the averageenthusiast.

Your comments are made out of ignorance.
It's the other products out there on the market that are "snake oil".
However, both BioSpira and Bactinettes do what they claim, and have
the correct start up bacteria in them.
Again, a simple search with prove the truth, as this is NOT my
opinion, but fact.
Your opinions on the products Roy, mean nothing. You don't know
anything about the product, so your ignorant claims are pointless.

Its not needed as there are ways to
> create the needed colony of bacteria.

Yes, there are. They were mentioned.
However, they time...some many weeks.
Some ways do harm to the fish, or can even end up killing them if not
done properly or the fish simply can't handle the torture of cycling.
Fish's gills get burned and scars form when used for cycling. This is
a fact, not opinion.
Why put a fish through that at all.
The hobby has come a long way and the old methods aren't the best, nor
the safest route to go.
It's best to keep on current facts in this hobby, that's for sure.
People used to think adding old tank water, or squeezings from used
filter media would put nitryfying bacteria in the new tank.
It doesn't. It was recently (past 10+ yrs now) learned the nitrifying
bacteria are sticky and adhere like glue to every surface, and do NOT
float about in the water column.
So adding old tank water or filter "squeezings" does nothing but dirty
up a new tank.
Sure adding a bit of food to let rot can begin the cycling process,
but it takes weeks.
People don't want to wait weeks looking at an empty tank.
They usually get tired of waiting and start adding fish anyway.
I never said using BioSpira or Bactinettes was the *only* way to cycle
a tank.
I even offered links to the other ways.
Your point about me arguing other ways isn't valid. You may want to re-
read my original reply.
Just because there are many ways to cycle a tank, it doesn't make them
better.
Cycling *with* fish is actually one of the worst.
OF COURSE many hobbists still do it. Of course many use "throw away"
fish, but that isn't necessary anymore.
Harming the fish isn't necessary when there are other, safer ways to
cycle a tank.
I think you missed that point Roy.

Why does Tynk not use a kill filter and
> kill file the so called troublemakers and bump on. Because its not in
> her plans as she has the need to disrupt for the plan to come
> together.

Actually, this is your fantasy Roy.
Everyone who accesses this group via Google (YOU KNOW THIS ROY because
YOU have even said this before...)
Google doesn't have troll filters.
How about for the new year you stop attacking people, start telling
the truth, posting with facts, and not personal grievances.
I'm guessing that's going to be too hard for you to accomplish.
Hopefully I will be wrong about that.

Randy Webb · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 21

Tynk said the following on 1/1/2008 11:28 AM:
> On Dec 31 2007, 8:50ï¿½am, AquariumFatasies wrote:

> I think you missed that point Roy.

To get the point, it would require that "Roy" employ some mind power and
try to comprehend what he reads. I contemplated busting the myths in
that post and chose not to. I don't think Roy would get it.

> Why does Tynk not use a kill filter and
>> kill file the so called troublemakers and bump on. Because its not in
>> her plans as she has the need to disrupt for the plan to come
>> together.
>
> Actually, this is your fantasy Roy.
> Everyone who accesses this group via Google (YOU KNOW THIS ROY because
> YOU have even said this before...)
> Google doesn't have troll filters.

Yes, that is very true. Would make Google a little easier to use
(even for researching old threads) if it did.

--
Randy
Chance Favors The Prepared Mind

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Jan 1, 12:53Â pm, Randy Webb wrote:
> Tynk said the following on 1/1/2008 11:28 AM:
>
> > On Dec 31 2007, 8:50ï¿½am, AquariumFatasies wrote:
>
>
>
> > I think Â you missed that point Roy.
>
> To get the point, it would require that "Roy" employ some mind power and
> try to comprehend what he reads. I contemplated busting the myths in
> that post and chose not to. I don't think Roy would get it.
>

No, I don't think he would.
Many hobbyists who been in the hobby for many years often get stuck in
the old ways, and continue spewing bogus myths over and over.
However, I can understand why so many long time hobbyists don't want
to believe that BioSpira (and this new Bactinettes) really does what
it claims.
I too did not believe it at first. I tried the other bacteria
"starters" on the market (my own research) but they were bunk. None of
them did much of anything, and most everyone who has done their own
experimenting with them found that the tank cycled just like it would
using fish in the first place.
At least now with the current research showing the truestart up
bacteria, the hobby will be changed forever.
It's just going to take time for the long time hobbyists to trust it,
the shops to start selling it and stop selling the "snake oil" ones.
Roy's right about the others being snake oil, but completely wrong
about Bio Spira ( I haven't personally used Bactinettes, but hobbyists
I speak with who are knowledgeable, and have tried it have had the
same great results as Bio Spira). It's also supposed to have the same
bacteria (nitrospira).
This information about nitrospira being the first bacteria to show up
is out there for anyone to learn about.
Not too long ago (in '07), there was even an article about the guy who
discovered it, and how they secrete a glue-like substance that makes
them stick to the surface they attached themselves to and don't budge.
He said it's actually difficult to get them off the surface they're
on.
Hence the squeezing of filter media being useless, as well as adding
old tank water.

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

It's going to be best to research all the different ways to cycle a
tank. That's a fact.
True information is out there regarding all the different bacteria
starters or boosters.
Tests results can be found, and folks can find the truth for
themselves.
Folks, do the research. Be informed, and keep current on the facts.

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Jan 4, 3:29ï¿½pm, Tynk <----- IMPOSTER TYNK ( cross
posts removed alt.usenet.kooks, alt.support.boy-lovers)
>
> Facts are Gill and Tynk crated the turmoil in the aquaria groups, and
> are hell bend on controlling all posters in a moderated group or
> forum..........Its a control thing for the two jerkoffs.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Actually,
In reality, neither Gill nor I want to crontrol anything.
You Roy want to control all the usenets groups, no matter what they
are, by spamming, and trolling.
Fatcs are, if you actually stopped what YOU ARE DOING to the
groups....they would all go back to normal and people would start
discussing the topic of the different goups.
That's a fact.
However, the only way to prove it is to stop yourself Roy.
I don't think you could handle doing that.

Tynk · Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 200

On Jan 8, 10:02ï¿½am, Tynk <----- IMPOSTER TYNK said
nothing but lies.....

(cross posts deleted as usual...* alt.usenet.kooks, alt.support.boy-
lovers)

Actually,
In reality, neither Gill nor I want to crontrol anything.
You Roy want to control all the usenets groups, no matter what they
are, by spamming, and trolling, and generally acting like a stupid
brat.